Ruffs and Reeves

These birds must not be drawn, neither do they require much trussing, being very plump; a small wooden skewer should be run through the thighs and pinions, with a string passed round it, and fastened; cover these also with a layer of bacon and a vine-leaf; run them upon a larkspit, and roast them before a brisk fire for about twenty minutes, frequently basting them with butter, and set some toasted bread under them to receive their droppings. When done, dish them up on square pieces of the toast; garnish with watercresses; pour some gravy under them, and serve the following sauce separately in a boat:—a large spoonful of good butter-sauce, a piece of glaze, cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice.

Ortolans and wheatears are served in the same manner as the foregoing.